‎You CAN make the SimpliSafe video doorbell work with most any chime | SimpliSafe Support Home
 
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Saturday, January 12th, 2019 10:08 PM

You CAN make the SimpliSafe video doorbell work with most any chime

The Simplisafe "Chime Connector" might fix your problem, or not.  I needed more, and found that also adding a relay solved my problem.  Here's how...

The solution I found, in addition to using the "Chime Connectors" for both front and back doors, was to add a relay to the front door circuit - the other (back) works fine with only the Chime Connector, probably because of the way this particular electronic chime works.  It needs a diode installed across the front button, though they don't bother to mention which way it goes nor that it matters.  Therefore, obviously what this 16-volt chime needs is about 8 volts (it gets half-wave AC through the diode, which I think it "sees" as DC) to the front connection constantly, so that once the chime is started it can do the full Westminster chime (front) or the full ding-dong (rear).  Otherwise it only makes a sound while the button is being pressed and then stops.

But this diode messes up the SimpliSafe bell system on the front door, even with the chime connector.

I use the Chime Connector to trigger a relay, which triggers the chime itself.  More complication - my chime is 18 volts and I found no appropriate 18-volt AC relays available but lots of 24-volt ones, so I have 24 volts going to the relay.  Simplisafe doorbell camera works just fine with 24 volts.  I already have a 24-volt transformer installed because that's what my old chime used, so that was easy..

The Simplisafe video doorbell needs power which then comes through the relay coil (even with the Chime Connector powering the relay).  But that either operates the relay or buzzes it.  Gotta get power to the doorbell camera and not operate the relay till the button is pushed.  I had a few 10-ohm resistors on hand (because they were one solution suggested here for the electronic chime issue).  I figured out that one 10-ohm resistor across the relay coil wasn't enough, but 2 in series (that makes 20 ohms) is.  Relay sits there, the resistors and relay coil allowing enough power for the Simplisafe doorbell camera, and when the button is pressed the relay gets more current, it activates, and the relay triggers the chime.

If you do this, get larger resistors than the 1/2-watt ones recommended somewhere on this Forum.  They work normally but if he doorbell button is held "ON" for a moment rather than just pressed and released, the little resistors get hot and then begin to smoke.  I've got some 25-watt 20-ohm resistors coming to use in their place so this won't be an issue.  They're cheap.

Summary:

The camera needs constant power, which it gets through the chime, but that makes many chimes ring constantly.  The SImpliSafe Chime Connector may fix that or it may not.

Electronic chimes also need constant power to allow them to finish their ring after the doorbell button is released.  My particular chime needs a diode connected across the front button in order to send power to the FRONT connector, but that doesn't seem to work with the Simplisafe camera.  I actually installed the diode at the chime itself, on the 16-volt supply of the chime so it didn't interfere with the SImplisafe camera.

Despite the diode, my chime wouldn't work with the SS chime connector on the FRONT side and the camera didn't work that way either, so I trigger the FRONT with a relay, operated by the Simplisafe Chime Connector.  REAR works with just the Chime Connector and no relay.

It all works.  Good luck !!

PS -

PLEASE, SImplisafe, give us a schematic for the Chime Connector and the video doorbell (with specs - amp draw, etc.).  This could probably be done more simply, although what I did indeed works well.

1 Message

6 years ago

Very close, check for my Instructables online "Adapting a Video Doorbell to a Digital Song Chime". Works great!

1 Message

5 years ago

I found you at last!  I'm having the same problem where the only way to get a full ding dong from my chime is holding the button down. I installed the SS chime connector to fix the power problem but still no full chime. I'm not super savvy with electronics but my old doorbell button had a tiny diode wired across it inside. I assumed it was to hold power for the full ding dong. It's just a diode though but it was required for the full ding dong. I tried installing it in both directions in my SS doorbell but no luck.
I'm confused by your description because I'm, again, not that savvy. Can you give me a more detailed or maybe dumbed down version of the fix as in what to connect and exactly where?  I'd REALLY appreciate it. I've been hunting for a long time on this one.  Thanks!!

58 Messages

5 years ago

I worked with commercial controls a lot and this relay is very handy....It will work with almost any voltage you want.  Just cap off the unused wires with a wire nut.  Not relay base needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-RIBU1C-Enclosed-Pilot/dp/B01LYKPNW1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549243384&sr=8-1&keywords=ribu1c

58 Messages

5 years ago

We used this relay a lot for commercial contol circuits.  Will utilize almost any voltage you want and no relay base needed.  Just cap the unused wires with a wire nut.

https://www.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-RIBU1C-Enclosed-Pilot/dp/B01LYKPNW1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549243384&sr=8-1&keywords=ribu1c

58 Messages

5 years ago

Anyone looking to do this take a look on Amazon for the RIBu1C.  It is as close to a universal relay you will find and no need for a relay base.  Led indicator is handy too.

I tried to post a link to it but it won't post for some reason.

216 Messages

5 years ago

WAY too much work for me!  This totally violates the reasons I went with SimpliSafe in the first place!  Part of which was easy and fast set up an installation.  I still think I'm gonna go with another brand of video doorbell.

Sound great for hobbyists and tinkerers though.

1 Message

Exactly. Why in the world would I want to go to all this trouble.

2 Messages

5 years ago

I was looking to return my Video Doorbell when I found this discussion.  KVACEK, following up on RTDRESSEL's post, can you provide a step by step description on the connections you made between the relay and the Chime Connector as well as the installation of the 20 ohm resistor?  Also, what make/model relay did you use?  I would prefer to keep the video doorbell but only if I can get it to trigger the digital chime.  Thanks!

2 Messages

5 years ago

I checked out the instructions in yama.dog's Instructables posting "Adapting a Video Doorbell to a Digital Song Chime" and made a modification to his design that eliminates a transformer.  Works like a champ!  I created a Bill of Material and a Wiring Diagram showing what I did and posted in in Instructables under "Connecting the SimpliSafe Video Doorbell to a Digital Chime."

The URL to my Instructables posting is:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Connecting-the-SimpliSafe-Video-Doorbell-to-a-Digi/

I hope this helps you out!

1 Message

If you already have a multi-tune chime and 16 vac door chime transformer connected (nutone). How do I make the connections according to the diagram you included on your instructables? I'm a bit confused. ???? Looking at the diagram, it's showing a connection from the video doorbell (which is outside) and the ss chime connector which also connects to the relay, how do you do that????

1 Message

This was intended to reply to dlg's post that references his  Instructables posting at:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Connecting-the-SimpliSafe-Video-Doorbel...

I used your parts list exactly (except I have an IQ America electronic chime), and wired per your instructions and diagram.  When I push the SS video doorbell button, I get the local ding dong and notification on my SS app, but nothing at the chime.  Also, the red LED in the relay lights up when the doorbell button is pushed or held.

Prior to this, I installed just the SS chime connector alone, and the chime worked if you held the doorbell button.  If you did a momentary press, no chime.  If you held, the chime would play until you release the button.  However, as I said above I get nothing from the chime after installing the relay with the chime connector.  I've checked my work several times and am sure I followed the instructions and wiring diagram.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

2.8K Messages

5 years ago

I'm not an engineer or electrician, but thank you! for doing this for others here who might be handy enough to pull it off! (and still keep their digital doorbells)

3 Messages

5 years ago

We have a nutone chime that has to be original with the 1950's house and not digital. When the SimpliSafe doorbell was installed, it chimed constantly. They sent the chime connector and it was the same. I read your post and others and decided it was not worth my time and effort so I returned the doorbell. (I had to follow up for a refund)  I bought a Ring and it worked perfectly! I did not want to pay an electrician and I am glad I didn't waste my money on one. Come on SimpliSafe, if Ring works, then you should not need to hire an electrician to make your product work.

5 Messages

5 years ago

This is another crappy supported (not) product. I don't want to trouble shoot and try to figure out if adding a relay works. I want the damn thing to work out of the box when I plug it in.

2 Messages

5 years ago

Anyone have any specs on the chime connector? max voltage, current, etc?
I'm attempting to hook it up to trigger a button press from a relay but the chime connector started to get super hot and I'm concerned I'm using it improperly.

I had it wired in parallel with the same 24vac transformer I use to power the doorbell.

It initially seemed to be doing what it was supposed to do - drop the voltage to ~0.3v on the button press but then it started getting really hot and melting the housing.

Perhaps I have misunderstood how this device is used. I agree there's far too little data to determine how it's supposed to be used.

Can anyone shed some light on what I'm doing wrong?

Time to see if Simplisafe is nice enough to send me another chime connector...

Thanks!

update --
Having looked over some other instructables schematics I do believe I've wired it incorrectly. That said I'm still not certain that 24v @ 500mA is too much for the chime connector. However I'm not sure why they would make the doorbell safe at that voltage/amperage and not the chime connector.

2 Messages

5 years ago

Just bought video doorbell and all is working as advertised with minimal false alarms EXCEPT that I only get one ding on my Nutone mechanical chime.   I called Simplisafe and they are out of chime connectors with no ETA on replacement stock. Got the impression they were not going to make them anymore.  Does anybody have a solution that does not involve the chime connector?

Captain

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6K Messages

5 years ago

@mayweb57, I have a nutone chime and works fine with the ss db. Did you wire it correctly? The back door is one chime only, front door multiple.

2 Messages

It's wired correctly - this is a common known issue that is corrected  for some by the chime connector that SS was providing and now they do not..   If they are not going to provide it any longer maybe they can release the design.   There also has to be some electrical engineer types out there with suggestions of what to use in it's place.

1 Message

How did you wire your simplisafe doorbell to the nutone system? I also have the nutone system and can't get the ss doorbell to work. Any suggestions? I got them to send me a chime connector but I'm not entirely sure how to wire it. Any advice would be helpful as I don't want this doorbell to have been a huge waste of time and money. Thanks

1 Message

4 years ago

This entire thing is absolutely ridiculous. I ordered an entire SS system to replace my ADT system to save some money. The doorbell  camera came first and I wasted an hour for nothing. I called and was immediately told I needed the chime connector which would be sent free of charge. So I asked why it wasn't just included to begin with and was told the problem was too "sporadic." Probably as sporadic as the need for the spacer they include with every doorbell. So they will spend more money and waste more of my time to save what, a $0.05 part? Thanks. Maybe I'll wait to install the whole system until I see how the doorbell goes. I am NOT going to spend a ton of time trying to rig something to work that should just work. We have 3 year old house and if a system can't be installed in that, then it isn't worth my time or effort. If this is an indication of how the rest of the service is, maybe I'll stick with ADT after all.
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