In addition to the 8-24 Volts that are required to power the Video Doorbell Pro, there are a few more details that may be relevant in your cases. The first additional detail is that the Video Doorbell Pro requires Alternating Current which is the case for most doorbell circuits installed in the US. The second is that the Video Doorbell Pro uses a little more than one Amp when the button is pressed. Make sure that when purchasing a doorbell transformer to use with your Video Doorbell Pro that it meets all 3 of these requirements.
24V 40VA Thermostat and Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi and Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell (Style 1)
Sadly, since the Community admins aren't electricians, we're only really able to offer assistance with officially supported installations. Right now, that includes only installing the Video Doorbell on a full wired analog doorbell system.
However, the rest of our Community might be able able to weigh in!
Doobell transformer "size" is typically rated in VA (Volt-Ampere), So, a common transformer rating might be something like 16 Volt, 20VA.
Note the competition recommends a minimum of 20VA transformer if using just the camera direct to transformer. 30VA if the camera is connected to an actual doorbell circuit.
As well, the competition appears to recommend a series resistor between the camera and transformer if it's just the camera connected to the transformer and no actual doorbell on the circuit. The resistance of the actual doorbell would provide some current limiting so without the doorbell they suggest a 25 ohm, 50W resistor in series between the transformer and the camera.
If I was putting one in I would use a 30VA to be on the high side, and I would follow the competitive lead putting that resistor in series if it was just the camera and transformer, without actual doorbell in the circuit.
I've two transformers blow for our SimpliSafe video doorbells after hiring a professional electrician to install them. He used the transformer specs on the documentation that came with the units. Are those specifications correct or is some of the other information below going to help us from the inconvenience and expense of buying and hiring electricians?
I did a new test rig with a new transformer, new chime and a new conventional doorbell button. Worked perfectly. Removed the conventional button with the Doorbell Pro cam. Chime would not work at all. Only heard the chime sound when I powered the rig up and down. Used the SS Chime Connector. Then I burned out another transformer.
The was with a replacement SS Doorbell Pro unit from the company.
Back to research on Google. Found this... "OhmKat Video Doorbell Power Supply - Compatible with SimpliSafe Pro Smart Wi-Fi Video Doorbell"
I would expect the issue wired directly is the resistance as mentioned in previous post. A mechanical doorbell chime add series reaistance that limits current. Electronic chimes even with adapters isn't the same.
OhmKat explained that a conventional doorbell circuit is not under continuous power. When the analog button is pushed, that completes the circuit, ringing the chime.
An electronic doorbell must do 2 things... Be ready to ring a chime when its button is pushed AND be powered continuously to record video.
When the camera is connected to a conventional doorbell there IS continuous power in the circuit at all times. That's how the camera receives power. However, the power draw (quiescent current) of the camera is not enough to activate the doorbell because the draw of the camera is less than what it takes to activate the doorbell. So, you have to push the button to actually make the doorbell ring.
An electronic doorbell is a different cat because they require very little current to actuate. That's why so many people have problems with doorbell cams and electronic chimes. The standby current draw of the camera is often enough to cause the electronic chimes to activate without even pressing the button. So, they come up with the diodes or resistors and funky adapters to try to make those play nice together.
The reason the OhmKat doesn't burn up because it is internally current limited, which is what the mechanical doorbell chime normally does. And, hence why Ring suggests putting a resistor in series when there is only the doorbell and transformer.
The OhmKat certainly appears a decent solution for non-electrically inclined, but one can buy a 25 ohm, 50W resistor from DigiKey, et al, for $3-$4 plus a few bucks shipping, or for $10 from Amazon like this example https://www.amazon.com/Ring-53-023183-Wirewound-Resistor/dp/B07WF98SVW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=25+ohm+50+watt+wirewound+resistor&qid=1612728179&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011&sr=8-1
Simplisafe markets the Video Doorbell Pro as a plug and play solution. Reading the tons of user problems on these forums and others relating their various failures indicates that is not what's happening.
In my case, we were starting from scratch using new wiring and new transformer without an analog chime, intending to use the Base Station feature in the app to chime. SS tech told me that this approach would work fine. My electrician is experienced with other doorbell cam installations (though not SS). We followed all the directions explicitly. We burned out 3 transformers on the first day. SS replaced the Doorbell Cam. I burned out another with a fresh test rig using an analog (NOT ELECTRONIC) chime AND the SS Chime Connector (which they don't ship as a kit).
I then bought a new Doorbell Pro retail at Best Buy.
The OhnKat works. Immediately. Without any fuss. I write only as a user who was not getting useful info from SS to solve my problem.
Your post demonstrates that the Video Doorbell Pro is NOT plug and play nor as simple as SS says.
Bottomline: MUCH more field testing needs to be done to guide customers to a successful installation experience. There are too many variables in the analog installed world to assume that these devices will be easy to install.
whoaru99 wrote:
When the camera is connected to a conventional doorbell there IS continuous power in the circuit at all times. That's how the camera receives power. However, the power draw (quiescent current) of the camera is not enough to activate the doorbell because the draw of the camera is less than what it takes to activate the doorbell. So, you have to push the button to actually make the doorbell ring.
An electronic doorbell is a different cat because they require very little current to actuate. That's why so many people have problems with doorbell cams and electronic chimes. The standby current draw of the camera is often enough to cause the electronic chimes to activate without even pressing the button. So, they come up with the diodes or resistors and funky adapters to try to make those play nice together.
The reason the OhmKat doesn't burn up because it is internally current limited, which is what the mechanical doorbell chime normally does. And, hence why Ring suggests putting a resistor in series when there is only the doorbell and transformer.
The OhmKat certainly appears a decent solution for non-electrically inclined, but one can buy a 25 ohm, 50W resistor from DigiKey, et al, for $3-$4 plus a few bucks shipping, or for $10 from Amazon like this example https://www.amazon.com/Ring-53-023183-Wirewound-Resistor/dp/B07WF98SVW/r...
Yes, "almost" is a qualifier. It does imply "existing" - not what I have as we were starting from scratch. That's a big missing piece in SS's marketing. It still doesn't explain why I blew transformers with an analog test rig though?
I started this thread because of an experience that did not match my expectations nor the guidance I was getting from SS. I didn't trash them. I posted with the hope that I'd find an answer where the direction I was getting from SS had failed. This, after I discovered that MANY users were having similar challenges with the so-called plug 'n play Video Doorbell Pro.
I found the OhmKat Power Supply. I tested it for a week before permanently mounting it. Today, my electrician and I installed it permanently. It's working, flawlessly. Just as I'd expected when I started this too hard effort. I'm not using a chime as my house is small and I may not need it - the base station may suffice. If not, OhmKat offers an inline wireless module that works well (tested with my temp rig)
Now, I share this latest experience with the hope that it will benefit others. Good luck.
I believe I already explained most likely why the transformers "blew".
Transformers are pretty basic devices. There isn't a whole lot to go wrong. Transformer failure is most likely due when asked to supply more current than they are rated to deliver. The only plausible explanation for all those transformer failures is that the doorbell camera, without some sort of current limiting (a doorbell or a resistor), draws more current than the transformer rating and subsequently the transformer fails. The only other explaination is a wiring/installation error that caused a short circuit, which causes the same net effect...transformer tries to supply more current than it is rated for, subsequently killing itself in the process of trying to do that.
As suggested previously, withthout an actual doorbell in the circuit a resistor will do it. If anyone can't work at that detail then it appears the OhmKat provides that albeit at higher cost. But, higher cost is often the price paid when one can't or chooses not to DIY.
And, that's OK if one chooses not to DIY. I pay more for oil changes these days because I choose not to do them myself anymore. Too much hassle to get rid of used oil and filters from multiple vehicles.
This situation is the type of thing that interests me as electrical/electronics is a hobby. But, the price is a SS doorbell cam is too much for simply experimenting. Maybe they'll send one gratis for me to investigate this phenomena and make a technical recommendation. :)
New to the Community? Get started by reading our Welcome Post.
carwashguy
1 Message
2 years ago
0
0
simplisafe_admin
Community Admin
•
491 Messages
2 years ago
In addition to the 8-24 Volts that are required to power the Video Doorbell Pro, there are a few more details that may be relevant in your cases. The first additional detail is that the Video Doorbell Pro requires Alternating Current which is the case for most doorbell circuits installed in the US. The second is that the Video Doorbell Pro uses a little more than one Amp when the button is pressed. Make sure that when purchasing a doorbell transformer to use with your Video Doorbell Pro that it meets all 3 of these requirements.
SimpliSafe Social Team
SimpliSafe Home Security
2
0
whoaru99
1.3K Messages
2 years ago
Note the competition recommends a minimum of 20VA transformer if using just the camera direct to transformer. 30VA if the camera is connected to an actual doorbell circuit.
As well, the competition appears to recommend a series resistor between the camera and transformer if it's just the camera connected to the transformer and no actual doorbell on the circuit. The resistance of the actual doorbell would provide some current limiting so without the doorbell they suggest a 25 ohm, 50W resistor in series between the transformer and the camera.
If I was putting one in I would use a 30VA to be on the high side, and I would follow the competitive lead putting that resistor in series if it was just the camera and transformer, without actual doorbell in the circuit.
2
0
SteveDinAZ
6 Messages
2 years ago
I did a new test rig with a new transformer, new chime and a new conventional doorbell button. Worked perfectly. Removed the conventional button with the Doorbell Pro cam. Chime would not work at all. Only heard the chime sound when I powered the rig up and down. Used the SS Chime Connector. Then I burned out another transformer.
The was with a replacement SS Doorbell Pro unit from the company.
Back to research on Google. Found this... "OhmKat Video Doorbell Power Supply - Compatible with SimpliSafe Pro Smart Wi-Fi Video Doorbell"
https://www.ohmkat.com/collections/featured-products/products/copy-of-ohmkat-video-doorbell-power-supply-compatible-with-simplisafe-pro-smart-wi-fi-video-doorbell
Decided to buy a new SS Doorbell Pro retail from Best Buy (as was recommended elsewhere in these forums).
IT WORKED PERFECTLY using the OhmKat Power Supply! No chime in the circuit needed but OhmKat makes an inline plug and play chime module.
I HIGHLY recommend this power supply as it's designed for the SS Video Doorbell Pro.
0
whoaru99
1.3K Messages
2 years ago
0
0
SteveDinAZ
6 Messages
2 years ago
An electronic doorbell must do 2 things... Be ready to ring a chime when its button is pushed AND be powered continuously to record video.
2
0
whoaru99
1.3K Messages
2 years ago
Note the key word is almost...
The thing with forums is you only know some fraction is expressing a concern, you generally don't know who is working fine by the book.
But, it's been clear on any number of cases on any number of topics there is fairly limited detail on system requirements.
0
0
SteveDinAZ
6 Messages
2 years ago
I started this thread because of an experience that did not match my expectations nor the guidance I was getting from SS. I didn't trash them. I posted with the hope that I'd find an answer where the direction I was getting from SS had failed. This, after I discovered that MANY users were having similar challenges with the so-called plug 'n play Video Doorbell Pro.
I found the OhmKat Power Supply. I tested it for a week before permanently mounting it. Today, my electrician and I installed it permanently. It's working, flawlessly. Just as I'd expected when I started this too hard effort. I'm not using a chime as my house is small and I may not need it - the base station may suffice. If not, OhmKat offers an inline wireless module that works well (tested with my temp rig)
Now, I share this latest experience with the hope that it will benefit others. Good luck.
1
0
whoaru99
1.3K Messages
2 years ago
Transformers are pretty basic devices. There isn't a whole lot to go wrong. Transformer failure is most likely due when asked to supply more current than they are rated to deliver. The only plausible explanation for all those transformer failures is that the doorbell camera, without some sort of current limiting (a doorbell or a resistor), draws more current than the transformer rating and subsequently the transformer fails. The only other explaination is a wiring/installation error that caused a short circuit, which causes the same net effect...transformer tries to supply more current than it is rated for, subsequently killing itself in the process of trying to do that.
As suggested previously, withthout an actual doorbell in the circuit a resistor will do it. If anyone can't work at that detail then it appears the OhmKat provides that albeit at higher cost. But, higher cost is often the price paid when one can't or chooses not to DIY.
And, that's OK if one chooses not to DIY. I pay more for oil changes these days because I choose not to do them myself anymore. Too much hassle to get rid of used oil and filters from multiple vehicles.
This situation is the type of thing that interests me as electrical/electronics is a hobby. But, the price is a SS doorbell cam is too much for simply experimenting. Maybe they'll send one gratis for me to investigate this phenomena and make a technical recommendation. :)
0
0